I read the other day that a pair of orange-winged amazons had set up home in the wall of a Church near Hull and that their noisy squawking is now waking the neighbours up in the morning.

Amazons are popular pets which can live to 50 or even 60 years old with the right diet and living a stress-free life and it could be that someone had bought them as pets but found that they had got too much for them and so released them into the wild.

This story proves that being the owner of a parrot like these can be a lifelong commitment.  From buying a parrot cage to choosing the correct type of food and making sure that you are providing adequate care and attention to the bird, you can be sure that this is not an easy hobby !!

The best type of parrot cage for an Amazon parrot should be between 39″- 59″ (100-150 cm) high and have a floor space of 23″x 39″ (60 x 100 cm).  This size of bird cage will provide your parrot with lots of room for movement as well as plenty of space for perches, food dishes and toys.  If you intend to house 2 Amazons then you need to buy a parrot cage with a ceiling height of at least 70″ (180 cm) and a minimum floor space of 39″x 59″ (100 x 150 cm).   Perches should be 0.5″ to 1″ round and it’s also a good idea to provide various sized fruit tree branches as well.  Toys provide stimulation for your parrot and he will like climbing ropes, playing with chains, bells, parrot swings and  bird toys which can all be purchased from your local pet shop.

It’s also essential to allow your parrot to enjoy a good sleep and this means either moving him to a quiet room for several hours a day or providing him with a parrot cage cover so that he has a dark, quiet place in which to relax. 

As with all pets, it is really important to make sure that you clean out your bird’s water and food dishes on a daily basis.  You should also wash all his perches and toys every week and the floor of the parrot cage should be washed about every other week.  Clean parrots are usually happy healthy parrots.

Amazon parrots are usually reasonably calm and peaceful but can get vocal early in the morning and in the evening as it starts getting dark.  They are very sociable birds and so a single parrot will make a wonderful pet if it gets plenty of attention from its owner.  However, when they get to about 4 or 5 years old they reach sexual maturity and if you leave your parrot alone a lot he may become restless, start feather plucking and in general show signs of psychological distress.  A female parrot can even start laying infertile eggs.  This is because in their natural environment they would begin to find a mate and pair up at this age.  Living with a mate is part of the social pattern of the Amazon parrot and here lies the key to the amount of attention your pet requires.

Amazons and children can get along successfully if  your parrot gets used to your child  and you teach your child how to interact properly with your parrot.  However, sometimes a parrot can get very jealous of small children and so it is adviseable to supervise the situation and not leave them on their own together.  Amazons and other pets like cats and dogs can also get used to each other and learn to accept each other but again, you should be very careful to monitor all groupings of animals and not leave them alone.

It is worth knowing that Amazon parrots can be very dangerous to small pets such as hamsters, guinea pigs, mice and other small birds so if you want your parrot to come out of his parrot cage on a regular basis just remember to keep an eye on things.

The Amazon parrot is the quickest of all the parrots at becoming accustomed to it’s new environment but you should always give him a few days to get used to you.  He will soon become accustomed to your voice and to his parrot cage and once he does it will be safe to try handling him.  A handfed baby bird will not need much taming and can often be handled right away as it has had time to get used to human attention but an older parrot will take longer to trust you.

To be able to handle and train your parrot he needs to trust you, so go slowly and be consistent in your training and mannerisms.   Amazons are most receptive to training in the evening and ideally you should limit your training to less than 20 minutes  per session, with about an hour’s rest in between.  

The first goal is to get your parrot to accept a treat from you which will lead to him allow you to gently scratch his head.  Once you have achieved this, then you can begin to work on getting your parrot to step up on your hand.  Depending upon the tameness of your bird these two steps can be instantaneous (as in a handfed baby bird) or it could take several weeks or longer for an untamed older bird. 

Remember that taming and training a bird takes time and patience.  As with all bird and animal training, never ‘punish’ you parrot!  This will only serve to destroy the trust you’ve been trying to build and could result in an over-anxious, nervous bird. 

Remember that like a child, your Amazon parrot may feel shy at first.  Help him to overcome this and then you can begin to work on speech training because with frequent repetition an Amazon parrot can learn at least a few words.

Exercise and play are really important as these activities help the physical well-being and psychological health of your parrot.  They are good tools for helping to deter distress and can also help prevent the problems of screeching and feather plucking.  Providing your parrot with lots of activities in the form of large link chains, bird ladders, parrot swings, ropes, fresh branches for gnawing and chewing on and a selection of bird toys will ensure that he doesn’t get bored when left alone.

Amazons make great fun pets but remember they are a long term commitment and to release them into the wild because you have got fed up with them or found them to be too demanding is a cruel practise. 
 

Have you ever seen such a massive choice of rabbit hutches and guinea pig hutches on the market today?

You can purchase rabbit hutches in all types of shapes and sizes - although you should always try and purchase the largest you can afford as it is cruel to keep a rabbit in a small hutch that he cannot stand up on his hind legs in or run around and kick his legs in.

There are the basic rabbit hutches with a sleeping compartment at one end and a run area at the other.  These are usually on legs to prevent rising damp and reduce draughts and are also at a suitable height for humans to be able to get into them.  It is useful to buy a rabbit hutch or guinea pig hutch with a hinged lid so that cleaning it out is easy.

There are double hutches which are like the one mentioned above but are specially made for keeping 2 rabbits or 2 guinea  pigs.  These often have a ramp between the two hutches so that the 2 pets can socialise with each other but the ramp can be sealed off if you have two pets that fight.   There are even hutches for 3 pets, again of a similar type to those mentioned previously.

The rabbit hutches and guinea pig hutches with a run attached are a great idea, especially those with a long run as both rabbits and guinea pigs are active little creatures who like nothing better than having a good run around. A happy healthy pet is one who has lots of exercise as well as lots of love and attention.

If you are able to spend lots of time with your rabbit or guinea pig you should also consider investing in a separate rabbit run (used for guinea pigs as well) as this allows even more space for racing around.  But you should always be around to watch your pet if he’s in a pen to protect him from the local cat or even foxes.

Whatever hutch you choose, go for a good quality built one with no sharp edges, predator proof wire if possible and made from  good quality timber.  Remember that rabbits and guinea pigs feel the cold just as we do and a poorly built, draughty hutch made from plywood will not provide your pet with an adequate or comfortable home.  Remember that your pet deserves to be cared for properly, from his hutch to his food and will also need lots of quality time spent either with little friends of his own ilk (other rabbits or guinea pigs) or with you, his owner.

One last thing, your pet should always have a clean, hygienic hutch to live in and should always have access to good quality food and clean, fresh water daily. 

A well looked after pet is a happy, healthy pet !! 

I read an article recently about a neglected dog who had been found in a dirty house somewhere in the North of England.  The poor dog was a long-haired daschund and had not been cared for properly by its owners. 

Not only was the dog underweight as it had not had the right type of food, but its coat was dirty and matted with faeces.  The owners obviously either did not know or did not care that the dog was uncomfortable in this state.  It was even reported that there were no dog beds in the house - it was used to lying on a pile of filthy rags in the corner of the room.  it does make me wonder why some people bother to have animals in their homes.  Just like children, animals need to be looked after and should be provided with a basic, adequate dog bed, some toys and some good dog food.

All dogs also need some type of grooming - just like us they benefit from a bath, having their hair brushed and generally being looked after.  Not everyone can afford to take their dog to the dog groomers on a regular basis or even afford a dog grooming table but popping a small dog into a sink  full of warm, soapy water, drying him off with a towel and then brushing or combing his hair is just basic care.

Lots of people are purchasing dog grooming tables for home use, rather than taking their pet to the dog parlours.  If you know how to groom your dog yourself then this is an excellent idea and there are plenty of dog grooming tables on the market to suit all pockets.  There are adjustable height dog grooming tables, tables on wheel for easy movement, hydraulic dog grooming tables and electric dog grooming tables.  Whatever your price, you should be able to find one to suit your purse.  

Dog cages can be useful when you first get your new puppy.  Puppies get everywhere when they first come into your home and this is not always a good thing.  Just like babies, puppies need to be toilet trained and also need lots of sleep, so a cage can be an excellent training tool in both these areas.

It is important to get the right size dog cage for your puppy and this can depend on how long you intend to use the cage.  If you just intend to use it whilst your puppy is very young then get one that is large enough to last him up until he is 6 months old.  If you intend to use the cage long after your dog is trained then make sure you get one which will be large enough to fit him when he is adult sized.  Ideas-4-pets have a cage size guide on the site which can be useful to refer to before purchasing.

Dog cages are usually constructed from powder coated steel, silver coated steel or galvanised steel and can be either square mesh or oblong mesh.  There are also some which come in various different colours like blue and pink if you want something a little different for your dog. They can have either 1, 2 or 3 doors and some have a door on the top of the cage which can be useful if you have a number of puppies who can excellent little escape artists if they want to !!

It’s up to individual choice as to whether you choose a 1, 2 or 3 door dog cage.  Sometimes it is useful to have a door on the long side of the dog cage and a door on the short side so that you are not limited to where you can place the cage.  Look for a dog cages that are quality made (no sharp edges) and made sure that the one you choose is strong enough to hold your pet.  There are some good lightweight models on the market but these are better for smaller, lighter dogs or dogs who are already trained to use a dog cage. 

One very important thing to remember - NEVER force your dog into a dog cage or he will become nervous and see the cage as a punishment.  Your dog should see him cage as a safe refuge, a “den” where he can go to sleep, away from the noise and bustle of family life.  If you gently coax him into the cage by placing one of his favourite, soft, warm dog beds in there along with treats or his favourite toy or even his food dish to start with, then his natural curiosity will lead him in there.  NEVER close the dog cage door when he first goes in there as again, this will scare him as he will feel trapped and see it once again as punishment.  Instead, let him lie down in there comfortably of his own accord and leave the door open for him to go in and out at leisure.  Your patience will pay off in the long run and he will learn that his dog cage is a comfortable, safe haven for him.

You will notice that all dogs have a “denning” instinct and they enjoy lying in dark places like underneath the table, behind the sofa, under the bed, etc.  If you place a blanket on top of the dog cage, this will create a similar “den” for your dog which he will learn to appreciate.

Once your dog has got used to his dog cage and will happily go in it of his own volition, then you can close the door but only for short periods of time.  Locking a dog in a cage for a long time is a cruel practise which we would not recommend.  If, however, you have visitors who may well tread on your new puppy then this would be an option to keep him out of harm’s way for an hour or so.  Equally, if you have not purchased a puppy play pen for your pet, his cage will be useful if you are busy elsewhere in the house and do not want to give him the opportunity of  chewing your furniture, best shoes or electrical cables !! 

As with all training tools, used sensibly,sympathetically, carefully and properly a dog cage can be a huge help in the training of your pet.

Did you know that small animals can get dirty and can also suffer from matted coats if they are not groomed regularly.

Keeping their rabbit hutches or guinea pig hutches pristine clean can help to prevent this happening and brushing your small pet regularly will also help tremendously.

Guinea pigs can sometimes suffer from mites which are a nuisance and an irritant for your pet.  If this happens to your guinea pig we suggest you purchase a special treatment from your vet which will get rid of these quickly.  Sometimes the only way to apply this treatment is to give your guinea pig a bath but bathing is not normally recommended as a way of keeping them clean.

However, Guinea pigs love to be brushed using using either a comb or a brush.   A soft brush like a babies brush are less likely to cause damage to your guinea pig’s delicate skin. Long haired varieties of guinea pigs will require daily grooming in order to keep them in tip-top condition and prevent matting but the short haired varieties will require much less grooming and weekly brushing should suffice.
 
Rabbits rarely need bathing but like guinea pigs, they do enjoy being brushed and in particular along their backs.  Rabbits are like cats and will spend time grooming themselves as they like to be clean.  One thing to check for though is that they do not ingest too much dead hair when licking their fur.  This can make them extremely ill as the ingested hair forms a hairball which blocks the stomach.  Did you know that unlike other animals, a rabbit cannot vomit so the consequences can be dire. Keep an eye on your rabbit’s grooming habits, especially when he is moulting or nesting.

Moulting generally takes place over a period of a few days or weeks and varies from rabbit to rabbit.  To help prevent ingestion of vast amounts of hair, pull the loose hair out gently with your fingers.  It will be sitting on top of his coat in small clumps so will not hurt your rabbit when you do this. 

If your rabbit’s hair does get matted (which can happen with the long haired breeds) it is not adviseable to use scissors to remove it because your rabbit’s skin is paper thin and can very easily be damaged.

Remember, keeping your rabbit hutch or guinea pig hutch clean will definitely prevent your pet from getting dirty with faeces or stale food and a clean rabbit hutch is also much more hygienic for your pet and for you. 

Some people don’t want to leave their rabbit outside in a rabbit hutch with an outdoor rabbit run, they much prefer to keep their rabbit indoors, which is fine.  Just make sure that you provide your rabbit with a suitable rabbit hutch or rabbit cage indoors and either purchase an indoor rabbit run or let him have the run of the house.

If you want your rabbit to live permanently indoors, you will need to train him to use a litter tray, but as rabbits usually use a single place to deposit their waste, they are usually fairly easy to house-train.

Most rabbits will quickly learn to pee in a tray, but may still scatter a few droppings on  your carpet.  As this is normal  behaviour for a rabbit there isn’t a lot you can do about it but the good thing is that the dry, odourless droppings can easily be swept up or vacuumed away.
  
You usually find that rabbits over a year old are easier to litter-train because they are generally calmer. Neutering and spaying are essential if you are thinking about keeping your rabbit indoors as they reduce spraying and territorial marking when neutered and so make better behaved rabbits that can be reliably house-trained.

It’s important to get your rabbit used to a litter tray from the very first day you bring him into the house, so make sure you have one or two trays at the ready.  If you provide more than one litter tray it will increase your rabbit’s chances of success and after a while you’ll be able to remove the tray he doesn’t use as much.

It’s wise to purchase a couple of big litter trays with high sides as this helps to the litter contained instead of it spilling out over the floor.  The best litter is either newspaper covered with hay and straw, paper-based litters or the non-clumping type of cat litter.  It is best to try and avoid  wood shavings and sawdust and clumping cat litters as these can harm your rabbit.

It is adviseable to start litter training in one room even if your intention is to eventually give your rabbit full run of your house.   If you have a room with a wooden floor or with floor-covering other than carpet, then this is ideal as it makes cleaning up after your rabbit easier - he will have accidents, just like children do !!  Fitting a dog gate in the doorway is a good way to keep your rabbit in one area while he’s in training and he will still feel that he’s part of the family.

Put one litter tray in his rabbit hutch or rabbit cage and a second litter tray in a corner of the room.  If you leave a few of his droppings and a piece of urine-soaked paper inside the trays your rabbit will soon get used the idea that he has to “go” in there, just like training a dog to “go” in the place of your choice.  When your rabbit  hops into the  litter tray give him lots of praise and a little treat.  Otherwise herd him gently towards the tray or coax him there with a favourite treat.  If your rabbit pees on the floor, say “No” firmly but do not shout at him or startle him.  Just calmly and  gently put your rabbit in his litter tray.

Remember to do this immediately after the event or you will just end up confusing him. If your rabbit isn’t keen on being picked up then gently coax him to the tray with a treat.  Never try to trap your rabbit or chase him to put him in his litter tray or he will see this as a punishment.   This is why you should never shout at or smack your rabbit, no matter how lightly as this will terrify your rabbit and you will never get results this way - he will just become nervous around you.

The trick to house-training a rabbit is to make the litter tray a very inviting place to visit.  Putting a treat like a piece of carrot or his food dish in one corner of his litter tray is a good way to coax him in there. 

It’s also worth trying different types of trays and litter to find out which suits your rabbit. Many rabbits like digging and rolling in their trays, grooming themselves or even taking a nap in there - this behaviour shouldn’t be discouraged  - if your rabbit loves spending time in his litter tray he’s more likely to mark it with pee and droppings and so get used to “going” in it on a regular basis.

In the early days it’s important to watch your rabbit carefully during exercise times – because rabbits are creatures of habit they get used to peeing in certain places and then it’s more difficult to stop them from doing it over and over again. 

As mentioned before, always reward your rabbit with lots of praise and cuddles when he uses his tray and then he should want to repeat the experience to get lots of positive attention from you. 

As a lot of rabbits like to find their own spot for “going”,  watch where your rabbit goes and move his litter tray where it is most needed - under the table, behind the chair etc. If this means rearranging your  furniture then so be it.  It is easier than working against a determined rabbit !! 

If you are out of the house or you don’t have time to watch your rabbit then it is wise to  leave him in his rabbit hutch or cage.  Alternatively you may have a small, easy-to-clean room such as the utility room to contain the number of “accidents” he may do and these will be easy to clean up when you return .

Diluted white vinegar will successfully clean litter trays and undiluted white vinegar will remove calcium deposits from the tray and from floors.  If you rabbit pees on the carpet on the sofa then wash off as per washing instructions.
Once  your rabbit becomes more reliable you can gradually increase his running space by one room at a time, until he eventually has full run of the house.
 

We all know how stressful moving home can be and this is no different for our pets.  Moving house is both exciting and scary and dogs not only pick up on our own vibes but are also experiences new sights, smells and places of discovery.

If your dog was used to a dog kennel when at your previous home then the smells in the new garden will be different to his old stomping ground.  If you purchased a good quality dog kennel for your dog at your last home then you will probably be taking this with you to the new one.

If not, then you will no doubt be considering a new dog kennel.  If your new garden is big enough then a dog kennel with an attached dog run is great as it will your dog the freedom he loves without the stress of him escaping in a strange area.

If your garden is already secure then a smaller kennel where he can retreat if the sun is too hot or the rain too heavy is another option.

Ideas-4-pets have an excellent selection of flat roof dog kennels, apex roof dog kennels, large dog kennels with attached dog runs and galvanised panels to build your own dog run to your own specifications.

Whatever you decide to provide for your dog when moving home, remember to give him lots of love and attention and reassurance.   Once you move in he will want to run around the house as his natural curiosity will take over as he gets used to the different layouts and the different smells he will discover.  Make sure that you take him out to explore the garden and walk him around the area regularly so that he soon gets used to his new surroundings.

Moving is a busy time for us but it is so important to spend some time with our pets so that they settle into their new surroundings smoothly

Once settled, just like us humans, your dog will soon get used to the differences in the house, garden and surrounding area and any stress he initially feels will soon evaporate.

Is a Guinea pig the right pet for you?

Guinea pigs are cute and friendly and are easily tamed, but like all pets they do need commitment and regular attention. 

Guinea Pigs love companionship and they particularly like to be with other guinea pigs.
Although a lot of people keep guinea pigs and rabbits together in the same rabbit hutch this practise is not always recommended by guinea pig breeders.

Guinea pigs need to be fed twice a day with a good quality Guinea Pig Food or  a mixture of meadow hay, greens, pellets, washed fruit and vegetables.   Remember that they will always need a constant supply of fresh, clean drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.

Guinea pigs require a large weatherproof guinea pig hutch or rabbit hutch, preferably kept off the ground and out of direct sunlight or strong winds.   The guinea pig hutch should be moved to an either indoor area such as a garage or a porch in the winter months.

The guinea pig hutch should have a separate sleeping area for each animal  and preferably an under-run as guinea pigs are playful little animals who love the space to run around and chase each other.  Supply your guinea pig with a clean layer of wood chippings on the floor of their hutch and plenty of soft hay for bedding and burrowing.

Because guinea pigs love exercise and play, provide them with the facility to have daily exercise in a grassy area which is safe from predators.  Guinea pigs need to graze,  so a guinea pig run or rabbit run is ideal.  If your guinea pig is indoors then provide him with an indoor run so that he can stretch his little legs in cold weather too.  

It is important to remember that their hutch should be cleaned on a daily basis and their bedding changed weekly in order to keep their living conditions clean and hygienic and keep the odour to a minimum.

Provide your guinea pig with a gnawing block to chew on as this aids the guinea pig to wear down his long teeth.  A long haired guinea pig or a guinea pig with a rough-haired coat should be brushed every day and their fur checked for mites and dirt.  This procedure also helps to build a bond with the little animal and gets him used to being handled.  If you guinea pig develops bald patches on his face of body this could be a result of a fungal infection and you should take him to your vet immediately for treatment.

Make an effort to spend some quiet time alone with your guinea pig every day, particularly if he does not have any other guinea pigs to play with or he will become bored and unhappy.

At holiday time make sure you have enlisted a responsible person to look after your guinea pig and his guinea pig hutch so that he remains happy and healthy until you return.

Guinea pigs can live for up to seven years old and so purchasing one of these little animals is a big commitment to make - remember that if you are purchasing one for your children that the responsibility will last this length of time and that they should not be purchased on a whim.  Remember that children can soon tire of things and it would be very cruel to purchase a pet that will be left on its own for long periods of time because the children have got fed up of it.

In the wild, guinea pigs live in close family groups so it can be unkind to keep one guinea pig on its own.  Companionship is essential to keep your guinea pig happy.  However, two adult guinea pigs that don’t know each other may fight so it is advisable to choose two young littermates of the same sex - either a father and son or a mother and daughter - this way, they are used to each other and should get on. 

When handling your guinea pig, always approach himfrom the front and on its level.  Pick it up using both hands, with one around its hindquarters and the other around its shoulders (for a young guinea pig) or around its chest (for an adult). Guinea pigs may become upset by too much handling so if your guinea pig appears stressed put him back in his guinea pig hutch or run for a while to calm down.

The RSPCA strongly advises the public not to breed from your guinea pigs as it is very difficult to find good homes for the babies.  The best way to ensure that guinea pigs do not breed is to keep males and females apart.

Did you know that a female guinea pig can produce up to five litters a year from a very young age?  If groups of guinea pigs are left to their own devices, your would soon be over-run with babies !! 

Make sure that you check your guinea pig regularly for overgrown claws and teeth.  Both can be trimmed by a vet.  If you find that your guinea pig is scratching a lot, this could be the result of mites or lice and can lead to severe skin problems if not treated.  Your vet can provide you with a suitable treatment for these problems.

It is worth knowing that long-haired guinea pigs in particular may suffer from the potentially fatal disease flystrike.  This is caused by flies laying eggs in soiled fur.  This is why it is essential to clean your guinea pig hutch day and change the bedding regularly.

Guinea pigs can also suffer from vitamin C deficiency which causes weight loss, general weakness and swollen joints.  It is worth asking your vet for advice on how to provide your guinea pigs with an adequate supply of vitamin C if this is not included in the food you are providing.

Guinea pigs can make lovely, loving little pets but as mentioned above, like all pets, they are a big commitment and should be given the care and attention that they deserve.

The first thing you will need to purchase for your pet rabbit is a quality wooden rabbit  hutch.  The smaller hutches found in a lot of pet shops are very small, measuring only  30-36 inches in length.  These are far too small for even the smallest of breeds.

However, here at ideas-4-pets we have a selection of quality wooden rabbit hutches in much bigger sizes and these are much more suitable for housing rabbits.

Rabbit hutches should have an enclosed sleeping area with a bunny door for easy access.  This is necessary so that the rabbit can find some peace and privacy to sleep and also to provide shelter from weather conditions if kept outside.  The hutch should also provide a  larger living area with a wooden roof, back and sides and a wire mesh front.  Try and find a hutch that states that it has fox-proof wire as this will help to protect your pet from harm.

If your intention is to house your rabbit permanently outside it is important that the rabbit hutch you choose has a sloping waterproof roof  so that the rain water runs off the roof and the wood does not soak up the water and become damp and cold when the weather is bad.

You can choose a rabbit hutch with an under-run which is accessed via a ramp and which can be closed off at night.

There are also rabbit hutches with a wooden framed extension run.  These have wire mesh sides and no floor and these types of rabbit hutches are intended to be placed on the grass so that your rabbit has free access to a grassy area where he can graze, play and exercise his legs.

If you intend to have more than one rabbit, there are two and three storey rabbit hutches available, each with its own sleeping area and living area . 

It’s a good idea to look for a hutch that has a waterproof coating on for hygiene cleaning purposes.  Frequent cleaning is always essential to ensure that the rabbit hutch is hygienic and free from smells.

Change your rabbit’s water daily so he always has access to fresh, clean water and feed him a good diet using quality rabbit food with the occasional treat - your vet will advise you on this. 

Place rabbit-friendly toys in the hutch so that your rabbit is stimulated and will not get bored when alone and most importanly give your time to your rabbit - he loves company and will need to get used to plenty of handling and plenty of play time.

Take a look at this adorable little puppy - how could you not just fall in love with it?  It’s a pity that not everyone sees this gorgeous little bundle as a living, breathing little baby that just longs for some care and attention.

There was an article in a newspaper I read the other day that was talking about some dog kennels in the USA.  These kennels were mass breeding puppies for the general market.

The article said that Two Shih Tzus were shaking and cowering when people walked past their dog cages.  A Rottweiller was suffering from eye, ear and skin infections and would require surgery for a sore on his foot which was caused from lying on a cold cement floor.  There was no dog bed in sight.  A Lhasa apso had gone blind in her right eye but the cause was not known and a  pregnant Doberman pinscher was suffering from severe mange and was underfed.

These apparently were just some of the conditions that afflicted a number of animals from a kennel which was termed as having deplorable living conditions.

Worryingly, there are stories like this one in the UK .  It is very unfortunate that there are a number of disreputable dog breeders out there who are in the business just for the money.

Responsible breeding is quite an expensive business when done properly and puppy farmers cut the costs as much as they can so that they can make the maximum profit.  They are irresponsible, callous people who just don’t care about the suffering they are causing and are not bothered if a few puppies die in the process.

Cost cutting can include breeding from bitches too often and from too young an age.  This causes problems both for the mother and her puppies.  Dogs are often crammed into unsuitable dog kennels or dog cages with no warm, cosy dog beds to curl up in and the dogs are only fed enough for them to survive and breed.  They are not given proper veterinary care or vaccinations and the pups are sent off for sale when they are far too young to leave their mothers which makes them very vulnerable to infections and illnesses.

When people buy puppies from these places they can easily end up with one suffering from physical defects, severe parasitic infections, hereditary diseases, behavioural problems and the worst scenario is that your puppy may die within a few days from a serious illness such as parvo virus, distemper or gastroenteritis.

An example of this is a gentleman in the UK who spoke to a local newspaper and said he will never forget the day he bought a West Highland white puppy from a “so-called breeder” as a birthday present for his 12 year old daughter. The dog fell ill within two days and had to be put down.   His daughter was heartbroken.

The moral of the story ?  Always check the breeder out before purchasing the puppy and ask to see the parents.  Check that the parents look healthy and ask their age.  Look carefully at your puppy’s surroundings - are they clean?  Is it kept in the home and socialised?  Make sure it has been vaccinated accordingly and take a trip to the vet immediately upon purchase to have your new pup checked out. 

If you hear of puppy farming in your area then inform the police and the RSPCA - let’s stamp out this cruel  practice for good.