Keeping chickens is also profitable because believe it or not, each chicken you keep (after feeding) can save you about £65.00 each year, so if you were thinking of keeping four chickens, you would save about £268.00 a year.

For this amount of money you could buy 300 free range eggs in the supermarket where the average price of a free range egg is about 27p per egg.  Some supermarkets are charging as much as 35p (and more) for an egg of the organic variety !!

Keeping chickens is fun, relaxing, and low maintenance, and they make productive pets and are a magnet for children.  Hens, like children, are bossy, demanding, endlessly curious and easily gratified.  They are funny to watch, make great friends with you and lay eggs too !!  But be warned, chickens also like to have dust baths, peck at your tomatoes and can make a chaotic mess of the garden.   The upside to this is that when the growing season is over they will eat pests, aerate the soil and leave fertilizer around as well as having a good time scratching in the dirt !! 

They are not as silly as a lot of people think either – they can be trained to answer to their name and will run towards you when you call them.

The major purchase is of course the chicken coop and these are available in different shapes and sizes to suit your garden, allotment, amount of birds you intend to keep etc. 

You will also have to provide your chickens will room to roam and scratch and run around and this could be in a covered chicken run or in the open air if you have the room.  It is however adviseable not to let chickens run loose in a neat garden that is precious to you and your family as chickens love to scratch around and will ruin a cultured garden very quickly !!

The more space you can allow your chickens, the happier they’ll be.  The term “pecking order” originated with hens and they will peck at each other for all sorts of reasons.  However, it is mostly to keep other chickens away from their little treasures, whether that be a glistening drop of rain or a juicy bug to eat !!  If they are given enough space, these little spats are harmless but when chickens get too crowded in their chicken house or their chicken run, they can become ruthless and have even been known to peck each other to death.   How much space your hens need depends on their sizes and breeds and the farmer or the breeder should be able to advise you wisely on this.

Feed and feeders are probably the next thing on the list and then the straw or hay for the nesting area of the poultry house.

All in all,the cost of setting up your hens will soon be raked back by the pleasure, interest and savings that will be gleaned from keepin them.

There are no strict guidelines laid down at the present time so it is always difficult to give such advise.  We tend to give the guidelines of the supplier and also the guidelines of the Poultry Club and then the final decision is how much room the customer would like their chicken to have. 

The Poultry Club give the following advise:

Poultry houses are used by chickens or hens for roosting, laying, and shelter. As the welfare of the chickens is entirely in the hands of their owners, certain principles must be observed.

The floor area should be a minimum of 1 square ft per bird (large fowl) or 8″ square for bantams.  If you are in a position to give them more space then so much the better, bearing in mind they will be spending quite some time in their hen houses sheltering from the rain and wind.  Perches should allow a minimum of 9″ for large fowl and 6″ for bantams and be 2″ wide.

Havig a chicken coop with the correct ventilation is vital in order to prevent the build-up of bacteria and condensation within the chicken coop.  Ventilation is better if it is located near the roof to ensure there are no draughts.  It is more difficult keeping the poultry house cool than warm.

Any windows are normally located near the roof of the chicken coop, with a sliding cover so that you can adjust the ventilation.  The windows are usually covered in mesh as glass can break and does not help the ventilation.  One window is adequate as the house can then be sited with its back to the wind. The amount of light increases egg laying, 14 hours being the optimum if you are adding artificial lighting which can come on with a timer in the early morning, allowing the birds natural twilight to choose their roost.

The timber used for the chicken coop should be substantial for the frame and can then be clad with tongue and groove or shiplap or good quality plyboard.  If the timber is pressure treated by Tanalising, it will last for years without rotting.  A sloping roof allows any rain to run off.  Remember that Red mite breeds in roofing felt, so check this area regularly and take necessary action if you see red mite in this area.  Onduline roofing is a corrugated bitumen which is light and warm and will reduce condensation.

Hens like to lay their eggs in secret places so nesting boxes need to be dark. The size required for large fowl is up to 12″ square and approx.  8″ square for bantams, with one nest box per four hens. Communal nest boxes with no partitions can be useful as sometimes all the hens choose just one nestbox and queue up or all pile in together which is when eggs get broken. Ensure that you have outside access to the nesting boxes so that you can easily collect the eggs. Litter in the nestboxes can be shavings or straw (hay is not receommended as it tends to go mouldy)

Perches provided should be broad, even for bantams - 2″ square with the top edges rounded is ideal. Some coops are deliberately supplied without perches so that customers can provide their own to suit the requirements of their particular hens.  Make sure they are situated at the correct height for the breed so that they can get on them easily and have room to stand up on them.  Try to allow approx. 12″ between perches if you have more than one and make sure they are higher than the nesting box, otherwise the hens will roost in the nestbox.  Some chicken coops provide a droppings board under the perches which can be removed easily for cleaning purposes and this will help to keep the floor of the house cleaner as hens do two thirds of their droppings at night. You can also check the droppings for colour and consistency (as a guide to health) more easily.

The hen house should provide protection from vermin such as foxes, rats and mice.  One inch mesh over the ventilation areas will help keep out all but the smallest of vermin.

Movable chicken coops and chicken runs are a good idea as the birds can have access to fresh ground regularly.  Some ar supplied with wheels and others have stretcher handles which makes moving them easier.  However, one disadvantage of movable chicken coops is that their size can be limited and therefore the amount of birds kept in them is limited too.

Static or Free-Range hen housing needs to be moved occasionally in order to keep the ground clean around the house, but the hens are allowed to roam freely or contained within a fenced-off area.  If a sliding or hinged roof is incorporated into the coop, there is no need to have the house high enough for you to stand up in.  It is useful, however,  to have a free range house with a solid floor raised off the ground by about 8″.  This discourages rats and other vermin from hiding under the house and can also make an extra shelter or dusting area for your hens.  They are liable to lay under the house if their nestboxes are not adequate.

When choosing poultry housing go for the basic principles above, but always remember ease of access – if a job is easy to do it is much more likely to get done.

I advised him that keeping chickens would probably take up more time that he seemed to expect, especially as he had never kept them before, because although chickens are less demanding than a lot of other types of domestic pet, they still attention,  access to fresh water, fresh food, a suitable quality chicken coop and have access to soil so that they can dig up the odd worm and insect.

Chickens can’t be left for days on end with just a big bucket of food for company. They need daily, regular attention. In fact, if you have any idea what it’s like to own a dog, then treat the caring of your chickens in the same way.  The main difference being that you don’t need to take your chickens for a walk or a run in the fields. 

Keeping chickens isn’t an expensive hobby, but you do need to purchase a quality hen house and chicken run and you will also have to look at the price of feed, supplements and vitamins. There are several types of chicken coops or chicken houses on the market but it is wise to consider how many chickens you’re planning to keep and make your decision from there.

The amount of eggs you can glean from your chickens easily pays this outlay back providing you have layers!  Chickens tend to live up to about 15 years old and can lay for a large part of their life but it’s worth remembering that a healthy, happy chicken will lay for a lot longer than one that is poorly kept and ignored.

If you’re a newcomer to chicken keeping, then it’s adviseable to keep only standard breeds such as the Rhode Island Red, the Marran or the Silver Sussex.  Don’t buy a chicken purely on it’s looks, as cross-breeds and exotics can be unpredictable in nature and behaviour.  We’ve been informed by some of our customers that some types of birds are known for being extremely noisy and will crow all day long. Your neighbours will certainly not take kindly to this trait if you live in a residential area and intend to keep them in your back garden !!

Certain other breeds are poor at resisting disease and require much more attention and a greater level of pampering from their owners.  Some types of chicken are not good layers and others may be susceptible to being attacked by other chickens.  This is known as being “lower down the pecking order” as they are lower down in the hierarchy of chickens.

You really do need to choose chickens that lay well, are easily tamed,  are physically strong and not known for being too noisy.  The birds that always seem to meet these requirements are the good old faithful Rhode Island Reds.

If you haven’t kept chickens before then 3 birds is a good number to start with.  Don’t ever keep one chicken because they are social creatures and need contact with birds of their own kind.   A lone chicken will suffer from being lonely and will not lay well.  Any more than three and you will very soon see the mess they create in terms of chicken poo and the amount of scratching about they do is unbelieveable !!

If you have 6 chickens or more don’t forget the difference it will make to the noise levels because more chickens means more birds competing to be top hen.  It’s also worth remembering that the amount of space they will need around them also changes dramatically.  That means larger chicken coops and larger chicken runs.  A good guide is to allow approx. 1 square foot for a small breed bird, 1 1/2 square feet for a medium sized bird and 2 square feet for a large breed chicken.

On average, one hen will lay one egg a day during the summer months, so this will maybe give you some idea of how many hens to purchase.

There are lots of chicken coops to choose from and generally they are made from wood.  Provided you either purchase a tanalised chicken coop or treat it with non-toxic wood preserve annually, these are good because they provide your chickens with a warm, dry environment.  Make sure they are well ventilated and  have an external egg box for easy egg collecting.

Some versions of chicken coops need a chicken run to go with them, but some of the newer versions can come with an integrated outer cage to act as the chicken run. These are ideal for bantams and smaller breeds or if you intend to keep 3 or 4 medium sized birds (dependant upon the size of the coop) Chickens love to roam around and scratch about so the more space you can provide them with the better. One curious bird can scratch every bit of interesting earth from a space 10 feet square within a couple of days, so that information gives you some idea of the space they require.

After all that, chicken keeping seems to be the hobby of the day and is becoming increasingly popular with people of all ages – whether retired or young families.

Our customer bought a chicken coop with an integrated run area and invested in 3 chickens and we are told that his venture has been very successful and his young son is enjoying the experience tremendously.

ideas-4-pets recommend that the minimum floor area of the chicken coop should be a minimum of approx. 1 square foot per bird (large fowl) or 8″ square for bantams. Obviously, if you can give your chickens more space then so much the better as they will be spending a certain amount of time in the hen house sheltering from the rain and wind, expecially in the colder winter months. Perches should allow a minimum of approx. 9″ for larger breeds of hen and approx. 6″ for bantams and 2″ square with the top edges rounded is ideal. Make sure that they are at the correct height for the breed of hens you have, so they can get on them easily and have room to stand up on them.  If you have more than one perch, make sure there is about 12″ between them.

The hens house should have the correct amount of ventilation as this is vital to prevent the build-up of bacteria and condensation. The ventilation is better if it is near the roof as this ensures that there are no draughts in the chicken coop and is usually fox-proof. Remember, that it is more difficult to keep a hen house cool rather than warm.

It’s a good idea to have a square mesh window that has a sliding cover to allow for adjusting the ventilation.  If you have this located near the roof, it will avoid letting draughts into the coop. One window is usually enough, as this allows you to place the hen house with its back to the wind.

It’s worth knowing that the amount of light in the coop, increases egg laying.  It’s recommended that 14 hours is the optimum and you can add artificial light to come on with a timer in the early morning, which allows the birds natural twilight to choose their roost.

Choosing a hen house of quality timber is essential and if fund allow, then go for pressure treated or Tanalised as it will last you for up to 20 years without rotting and without having to treat it annually . A slightly sloping roof is a good idea as this allows the rain to run off easily.

Most hen houses have a felt roof which are fine, but just bear in mind that red mites can breed in felt so you need to check for this and take appropriate action where necessary.  Plywood can be used if it is treated with non-toxic pet-friendly preservative or purchase a chicken coop with a corrugated clear plastic roof which will let in light and will also deter red mites who seem to thrive in dark places..

Ensure that your hen house has a nesting box as hens tend to like to lay their eggs in secret places.  12″ square is fine for larger breeds of bird or 8″ square for bantams with one nest box per four hens. Communal nest boxes with no partitions are also useful as sometimes all your hens will choose just one nestbox and either queue up or all pile in together.  Unfortunately this means that your eggs can get broken. Use shavings or straw in here, but not hay as this soon gets mouldy and unhygienic and can cause breathing problems.

Make sure you have outside access into your hen house as you will need to collect the eggs, but remember to provide adequate protection from  foxes, rats and mice.  As mentioned abovoe, 1″ square mesh over the ventilation areas will help keep out all but the smallest of vermin.

Movable hen houses with hen runs are good as your hens will get fresh ground regularly. Some have wheels on them which makes moving them easy, and some have stretcher handles which allow you to move them with a four man lift.
When choosing your hen house, ideas-4-pets would recommend that you go for the basic principles mentioned above but remember how important ease of access is – both for collecting the eggs and for cleaning.  Don’t make the job hard for yourself – get the housing right and the rest will be easy !!

For instance, they need to have access to adequate shelter in the form of a good quality chicken coop.   The coop should be large enough to accommodate their needs and a good guide is approx. 1 sq foot for a small bird, 2 square feet for a medium bird and 3 square feet for a larger breed bird. The hen house should be free from draughts and should allow the chickens space to roost with a dark, cosy area to lay their eggs. 

A chicken run should be added to the coop (if not already attached) if the chickens do not have access to a safe, secure garden or area.  Remember that chickens love to scratch around so if you do keep them in your garden, make sure you are aware of the damage they will do to your lawn !!  Chickens need exercise and they like to have an area where they can feed and dig and have the occasional dust bath. 

You should make sure that your chickens have continuous and easy access to an adequate supply of clean, fresh drinking water and that you provide them with feed of a type and form appropriate to the age and species of the chicken.  This will help to keep the chickens in good health and will also satisfy their nutritional needs.  Make sure that you protect their feed from rodents and other pests.

At least daily (more frequently for vulnerable chickens such as those that are ill or very young) you should your chickens to make sure they are healthy and not suffering in any way.  Chickens love the company of their own kind and so should not be kept isolated from others unless there is a sound reason for this.

You should also regularly check the state of your hen house and make sure that it is kept clean and hygienic to protect your chickens from infection and poor health.   Although ideas-4-pets have chicken coops with fox-proof wire, it is wise to remember that foxes will try to burrow underneath the coop in order to get the chickens so it is a good idea to either lock your chickens in the coop at night or have wire mesh underneath the chicken run area so that fox can’t get underneath.

Be aware of avian ‘flu and if possible either purchase a chicken coop and chicken run that have a covered roof or purchase some type of covering to protect your birds from wild bird droppings which can carry the virus.

Remember that a healthy chicken is a happy chicken and it is worth knowing that research has found them to be intelligent creatures with a brain that is comparable to a 3 year old child !!

It is important to provide your “broody” and her chicks and other birds you have with the correct type of housing and there are guidelines to follow which will help you to choose the chicken coop which will best suit your needs.

Materials used for the construction of chicken coops should not be harmful to the chickens and should be easily cleaned and disinfected. There should be no sharp edges or protrusions in the chicken coop that may cause injury to the hens. The coops must be suitably equipped to prevent your hens from escaping and the design and dimensions of the coop pop hole should be such that an adult hen can be removed without undergoing unnecessary suffering or sustaining injury.

Choose a chicken coop that will facilitate good management of your chickens, allow for
easy maintenance, provide good conditions of hygiene and air quality and provide shelter for your chickens from adverse weather conditions

DEFRA state that the coop should limit the risk of disease, disorders manifested by behavioural changes, traumatic injuries to the birds, injuries caused by birds to each other and, as far as possible, contamination of the birds by droppings.

ideas-4-pets have many chicken coops and chicken runs to choose from and many of them have a full roof over the run area to prevent wild birds’ droppings from entering the run and so help prevent avian ‘flu.

The chicken coop and run should have the type of mesh that will help to exclude any predators, rodents, and wild animals and also minimise the infestation of insects and external parasites.

The coops should have floors, perches and platforms of a suitable design and material to ensure that your chickens are not caused any discomfort, distress or injury. The perches and platforms must provide sufficient support and be of sufficient length to allow all your birds to roost at the same time. Some suppliers do not put perches in their chicken coops and this is because they feel that different sized birds need different diameter perches so they leave the hen owner the choice of putting the correct diameter perches in the coops. All floors, perches and platforms in the chicken coop should be kept dry and clean.

It is important that there is adequate ventilation, heating, lighting, feeding, watering
and all other equipment in the coop and these should be carefully placed to avoid risk of injuring the chickens.

New chickens owners can read more about these recommendations by reading the DEFRA booklet on keeping chickens which can be downloaded from their website.

 Here are just a few quick tips to consider:

• Your chickens should always have easy access to cool, clean, fresh water and be fed an appropriate diet that is nutritional and plentiful.
• Ensure that you purchase a good quality chicken coop that offers your hens a clean, tidy environment.
• Purchase a chicken coop that offers as much space as you can afford – hens love to flap their wings, so allow for this.
• A guideline is approx. 1sq ft for small birds, 1.5sq ft for medium birds and 2 sq ft for larger breeds
• A chicken coop should protect your birds from the cold damp weather in winter and also offer shade from the sun in the summer months.
• Make sure that the chicken coop and the chicken run are predator proof as foxes are adept at getting into coops and killing the chickens. 
• Make sure that the bedding material you use is absorbant – straw or wood shavings are a good choice.
• Make sure that the hen house has adequate ventilation but that it remains free from any draughts.
• Birds like to roost on their perches to sleep and the perches should be about 3-5cm diameter, dependant upon the size of the bird.
• A coop with a nesting box is a good idea as hens like to lay in the dark.
• Make sure that the run is large enough for the amount of chickens you are going to keep - a guideline is approx. 4 sq ft per chicken.  
• Chickens love to dig and to dust themselves down so allow for this. The person you purchase your chickens from should be able to help you to make a good decision on the size of the coop and run.
• Monitor your chickens daily to make sure that they remain healthy, happy and free from pain, disease or injury.
• If you are worried about any of your chickens then contact your local vet sooner rather than later.
• Follow the avian flu guidelines set down by DEFRA