However, it’s worth remembering that in this warmer weather, blue bottle flies hatch and these put rabbits at risk.  Blue bottles will seek out dirty places and these can often be found around the rear end of rabbits if they are not groomed properly or their rabbit hutch is not kept clean.  The flies will lay eggs in dirty rabbit hutches and dirty rabbit bottoms and in about 24 hours the maggots hatch and begin to feed on the body of the rabbit. 

As you can imagine, this is absolutely horrific and the prognosis is not good unless it is discovered and treated in the early stages.  As always, there are certain precautions which you should take to help prevent the problem.

Good hygiene is paramount at all times, but especially during the warmer weather. Rabbit hutches should be cleaned out thoroughly at least once a week and any dirty corners should ideally be done twice weekly.  You can also buy sprays on the market which are quite effective in deterring flies.

Did you know that overweight rabbits are  at greater risk as if are too fat they can’t easily reach to clean round their back ends.   This is why we recommend that all rabbits should be examined twice a week and the dirty areas around their back end should be cleaned with an antiseptic solution.  Your vet can advise you on what type to use. 

If the rabbits are kept inside a shed rather than outside in a rabbit hutch it should be easier to control flies as you can use flypapers or fly spray to keep the flies down.   If you prefer the more natural approach, try tying a spray of fresh lavender to the hutch as flies tend to hate the smell - just remember to keep this out of reach of your rabbit so that he cannot eat it !!

Lavender talc can also be sprinkled on your rabbit’s bottom in the summer although if you groom him regularly this should not be necessary.

If you notice your rabbit sitting unhappily at the back of his rabbit hutch check his back end and if this is dirty it is best to assume the worst.  Make up a solution of antiseptic and warm water in a bowl and sit the rabbit in the bowl for a minute or so.  If you have a long haired variety of rabbit, cut the fur off close to the skin.

If you see any maggots use tweezers to remove them and ensure that the whole of the maggot is removed.  Be very careful when doing this as a rabbit’s skin is paper thin and can soon be damaged.  It may be better to take your rabbit to the vet and let him do this for you.  If the maggots are not removed fully, they can burrow deep into your rabbit’s body and can do so much damage that your rabbit may die or have to be euthanised.

Keeping your rabbit well groomed and cleaning out his rabbit hutch very regularly will ensure that this awful problem does not occur - we like to live in a clean and healthy environment and so will your rabbit.  Your rabbit will also need access to lots of clean, fresh water daily and provide him with quality rabbit food and fresh veg. to keep him in tip-top condition.

Remember that a clean rabbit is usually a happy, healthy rabbit who will give you lots of love and provide you with lots of fun for years to come.
 

Here at ideas-4-pets we have had trouble keeping up with the amount of orders for chicken coops over the past couple of months.  However, we now have lots of new hen houses coming into stock within the next few weeks.

There are chicken coops with runs, chicken coops without runs, coops suitable for 2-4 chickens right up to huge chicken houses large enough to house 100 chickens !!  A very popular starter chicken coop is the type which has a sleeping area with or without a nesting box and an attached run with a felted roof to provide cover from wild bird droppings (in accordance with avian flu precautions)  

These chicken coops do not take up too much room and because everything is integrated under one roof, they provide an ideal “all in one” combination which suits most people’s (and chicken’s) needs.

Because these coops are fairly inexpensive and come in 2 sizes, they are proving to be our most popular seller.

There seems to be an on-going debate as to whether chickens need a nesting box in order to lay their eggs and customer feed-back just adds to the debate.  Some customers feel that a nesting box is essential whereas others feel that free-range hens lay anywhere that is dark (ie. the sleeping area)  Some customers want to have perches fitted in the sleeping area which some of our coops do, but others are concerned that the perches provided will not be the correct diameter for the birds they have chosen to keep, so other coops do not have them fitted, preferring to let the customer provide whatever diameter they feel necessary for their particular choice of bird.

Whichever chicken coop you eventually decide on, choose carefully and make sure that the one you choose is large enough for the amount of chickens you intent to keep.  A happy, contented laying hen will not only provide you with a good supply of eggs, but the whole experience of keeping hens should provide you with a pleasant hobby that reaps its own rewards.

My little Yorkie loves going to the dog kennels as she is welcomed with open arms by the caring owners of the kennels who know her well and treat her like royalty.  It’s me who leaves feeling bereft of my little furry friend and feeling that I’ve abandoned her !!

The dog kennels or boarding kennels I have chosen to leave her with are great - a family run business all of whom are fastidious about the welfare of the dogs in their care.  It is a small business - 25 boarding kennels in total with underfloor heating and with an office bang in the middle of the kennels so that they can keep a watchful eye on all their canine boarders.  The dogs are walked twice daily and they are also (with their owner’s consent) allowed to play together in the fenced off garden or the run area if the weather permits.

When we arrived, Daisy ran up the drive and was greeted 3 times by family members who she remembers well and who remember her.  Admittedly, she wasn’t keen on being placed in the dog kennel with her toys and her bed from home, with me making a hasty retreat and not looking back for fear of her seeing me cry!!  But I know from experience, that once I’ve gone she gets lots of attention and loves to be with the other dogs watching things happening and playing out in the sunshine.

When we pick her up again next week I know she’ll be bouncing with health and she’ll be over the moon to see me again, but whilst we’re away I also know she’ll be cared for and this helps the holiday go well for us.

At home she’s a little lap dog, but many dogs are kept in kennels outside on a daily basis and provided the dog kennel provided is the right size for your dog and is draught free and there is a large area for your dog to have daily exercise, then what better environment can you provide?

You can go to work or to the shops knowing that your dog is in the fresh air, is safe from running off and has shelter from the sun or the rain so you can rest assured your dog will be happy whilst you are away.

Just remember how important it is to leave your dog plenty of fresh, clean water (especially if the weather is hot), some quality food if you are away for some time and some toys to occupy his mind. 

Amazons are popular pets which can live to 50 or even 60 years old with the right diet and living a stress-free life and it could be that someone had bought them as pets but found that they had got too much for them and so released them into the wild.

This story proves that being the owner of a parrot like these can be a lifelong commitment.  From buying a parrot cage to choosing the correct type of food and making sure that you are providing adequate care and attention to the bird, you can be sure that this is not an easy hobby !!

The best type of parrot cage for an Amazon parrot should be between 39″- 59″ (100-150 cm) high and have a floor space of 23″x 39″ (60 x 100 cm).  This size of bird cage will provide your parrot with lots of room for movement as well as plenty of space for perches, food dishes and toys.  If you intend to house 2 Amazons then you need to buy a parrot cage with a ceiling height of at least 70″ (180 cm) and a minimum floor space of 39″x 59″ (100 x 150 cm).   Perches should be 0.5″ to 1″ round and it’s also a good idea to provide various sized fruit tree branches as well.  Toys provide stimulation for your parrot and he will like climbing ropes, playing with chains, bells, parrot swings and  bird toys which can all be purchased from your local pet shop.

It’s also essential to allow your parrot to enjoy a good sleep and this means either moving him to a quiet room for several hours a day or providing him with a parrot cage cover so that he has a dark, quiet place in which to relax. 

As with all pets, it is really important to make sure that you clean out your bird’s water and food dishes on a daily basis.  You should also wash all his perches and toys every week and the floor of the parrot cage should be washed about every other week.  Clean parrots are usually happy healthy parrots.

Amazon parrots are usually reasonably calm and peaceful but can get vocal early in the morning and in the evening as it starts getting dark.  They are very sociable birds and so a single parrot will make a wonderful pet if it gets plenty of attention from its owner.  However, when they get to about 4 or 5 years old they reach sexual maturity and if you leave your parrot alone a lot he may become restless, start feather plucking and in general show signs of psychological distress.  A female parrot can even start laying infertile eggs.  This is because in their natural environment they would begin to find a mate and pair up at this age.  Living with a mate is part of the social pattern of the Amazon parrot and here lies the key to the amount of attention your pet requires.

Amazons and children can get along successfully if  your parrot gets used to your child  and you teach your child how to interact properly with your parrot.  However, sometimes a parrot can get very jealous of small children and so it is adviseable to supervise the situation and not leave them on their own together.  Amazons and other pets like cats and dogs can also get used to each other and learn to accept each other but again, you should be very careful to monitor all groupings of animals and not leave them alone.

It is worth knowing that Amazon parrots can be very dangerous to small pets such as hamsters, guinea pigs, mice and other small birds so if you want your parrot to come out of his parrot cage on a regular basis just remember to keep an eye on things.

The Amazon parrot is the quickest of all the parrots at becoming accustomed to it’s new environment but you should always give him a few days to get used to you.  He will soon become accustomed to your voice and to his parrot cage and once he does it will be safe to try handling him.  A handfed baby bird will not need much taming and can often be handled right away as it has had time to get used to human attention but an older parrot will take longer to trust you.

To be able to handle and train your parrot he needs to trust you, so go slowly and be consistent in your training and mannerisms.   Amazons are most receptive to training in the evening and ideally you should limit your training to less than 20 minutes  per session, with about an hour’s rest in between.  

The first goal is to get your parrot to accept a treat from you which will lead to him allow you to gently scratch his head.  Once you have achieved this, then you can begin to work on getting your parrot to step up on your hand.  Depending upon the tameness of your bird these two steps can be instantaneous (as in a handfed baby bird) or it could take several weeks or longer for an untamed older bird. 

Remember that taming and training a bird takes time and patience.  As with all bird and animal training, never ‘punish’ you parrot!  This will only serve to destroy the trust you’ve been trying to build and could result in an over-anxious, nervous bird. 

Remember that like a child, your Amazon parrot may feel shy at first.  Help him to overcome this and then you can begin to work on speech training because with frequent repetition an Amazon parrot can learn at least a few words.

Exercise and play are really important as these activities help the physical well-being and psychological health of your parrot.  They are good tools for helping to deter distress and can also help prevent the problems of screeching and feather plucking.  Providing your parrot with lots of activities in the form of large link chains, bird ladders, parrot swings, ropes, fresh branches for gnawing and chewing on and a selection of bird toys will ensure that he doesn’t get bored when left alone.

Amazons make great fun pets but remember they are a long term commitment and to release them into the wild because you have got fed up with them or found them to be too demanding is a cruel practise. 
 

You can purchase rabbit hutches in all types of shapes and sizes - although you should always try and purchase the largest you can afford as it is cruel to keep a rabbit in a small hutch that he cannot stand up on his hind legs in or run around and kick his legs in.

There are the basic rabbit hutches with a sleeping compartment at one end and a run area at the other.  These are usually on legs to prevent rising damp and reduce draughts and are also at a suitable height for humans to be able to get into them.  It is useful to buy a rabbit hutch or guinea pig hutch with a hinged lid so that cleaning it out is easy.

There are double hutches which are like the one mentioned above but are specially made for keeping 2 rabbits or 2 guinea  pigs.  These often have a ramp between the two hutches so that the 2 pets can socialise with each other but the ramp can be sealed off if you have two pets that fight.   There are even hutches for 3 pets, again of a similar type to those mentioned previously.

The rabbit hutches and guinea pig hutches with a run attached are a great idea, especially those with a long run as both rabbits and guinea pigs are active little creatures who like nothing better than having a good run around. A happy healthy pet is one who has lots of exercise as well as lots of love and attention.

If you are able to spend lots of time with your rabbit or guinea pig you should also consider investing in a separate rabbit run (used for guinea pigs as well) as this allows even more space for racing around.  But you should always be around to watch your pet if he’s in a pen to protect him from the local cat or even foxes.

Whatever hutch you choose, go for a good quality built one with no sharp edges, predator proof wire if possible and made from  good quality timber.  Remember that rabbits and guinea pigs feel the cold just as we do and a poorly built, draughty hutch made from plywood will not provide your pet with an adequate or comfortable home.  Remember that your pet deserves to be cared for properly, from his hutch to his food and will also need lots of quality time spent either with little friends of his own ilk (other rabbits or guinea pigs) or with you, his owner.

One last thing, your pet should always have a clean, hygienic hutch to live in and should always have access to good quality food and clean, fresh water daily. 

A well looked after pet is a happy, healthy pet !! 

Not only was the dog underweight as it had not had the right type of food, but its coat was dirty and matted with faeces.  The owners obviously either did not know or did not care that the dog was uncomfortable in this state.  It was even reported that there were no dog beds in the house - it was used to lying on a pile of filthy rags in the corner of the room.  it does make me wonder why some people bother to have animals in their homes.  Just like children, animals need to be looked after and should be provided with a basic, adequate dog bed, some toys and some good dog food.

All dogs also need some type of grooming - just like us they benefit from a bath, having their hair brushed and generally being looked after.  Not everyone can afford to take their dog to the dog groomers on a regular basis or even afford a dog grooming table but popping a small dog into a sink  full of warm, soapy water, drying him off with a towel and then brushing or combing his hair is just basic care.

Lots of people are purchasing dog grooming tables for home use, rather than taking their pet to the dog parlours.  If you know how to groom your dog yourself then this is an excellent idea and there are plenty of dog grooming tables on the market to suit all pockets.  There are adjustable height dog grooming tables, tables on wheel for easy movement, hydraulic dog grooming tables and electric dog grooming tables.  Whatever your price, you should be able to find one to suit your purse.  

It is important to get the right size dog cage for your puppy and this can depend on how long you intend to use the cage.  If you just intend to use it whilst your puppy is very young then get one that is large enough to last him up until he is 6 months old.  If you intend to use the cage long after your dog is trained then make sure you get one which will be large enough to fit him when he is adult sized.  Ideas-4-pets have a cage size guide on the site which can be useful to refer to before purchasing.

Dog cages are usually constructed from powder coated steel, silver coated steel or galvanised steel and can be either square mesh or oblong mesh.  There are also some which come in various different colours like blue and pink if you want something a little different for your dog. They can have either 1, 2 or 3 doors and some have a door on the top of the cage which can be useful if you have a number of puppies who can excellent little escape artists if they want to !!

It’s up to individual choice as to whether you choose a 1, 2 or 3 door dog cage.  Sometimes it is useful to have a door on the long side of the dog cage and a door on the short side so that you are not limited to where you can place the cage.  Look for a dog cages that are quality made (no sharp edges) and made sure that the one you choose is strong enough to hold your pet.  There are some good lightweight models on the market but these are better for smaller, lighter dogs or dogs who are already trained to use a dog cage. 

One very important thing to remember - NEVER force your dog into a dog cage or he will become nervous and see the cage as a punishment.  Your dog should see him cage as a safe refuge, a “den” where he can go to sleep, away from the noise and bustle of family life.  If you gently coax him into the cage by placing one of his favourite, soft, warm dog beds in there along with treats or his favourite toy or even his food dish to start with, then his natural curiosity will lead him in there.  NEVER close the dog cage door when he first goes in there as again, this will scare him as he will feel trapped and see it once again as punishment.  Instead, let him lie down in there comfortably of his own accord and leave the door open for him to go in and out at leisure.  Your patience will pay off in the long run and he will learn that his dog cage is a comfortable, safe haven for him.

You will notice that all dogs have a “denning” instinct and they enjoy lying in dark places like underneath the table, behind the sofa, under the bed, etc.  If you place a blanket on top of the dog cage, this will create a similar “den” for your dog which he will learn to appreciate.

Once your dog has got used to his dog cage and will happily go in it of his own volition, then you can close the door but only for short periods of time.  Locking a dog in a cage for a long time is a cruel practise which we would not recommend.  If, however, you have visitors who may well tread on your new puppy then this would be an option to keep him out of harm’s way for an hour or so.  Equally, if you have not purchased a puppy play pen for your pet, his cage will be useful if you are busy elsewhere in the house and do not want to give him the opportunity of  chewing your furniture, best shoes or electrical cables !! 

As with all training tools, used sensibly,sympathetically, carefully and properly a dog cage can be a huge help in the training of your pet.

Keeping their rabbit hutches or guinea pig hutches pristine clean can help to prevent this happening and brushing your small pet regularly will also help tremendously.

Guinea pigs can sometimes suffer from mites which are a nuisance and an irritant for your pet.  If this happens to your guinea pig we suggest you purchase a special treatment from your vet which will get rid of these quickly.  Sometimes the only way to apply this treatment is to give your guinea pig a bath but bathing is not normally recommended as a way of keeping them clean.

However, Guinea pigs love to be brushed using using either a comb or a brush.   A soft brush like a babies brush are less likely to cause damage to your guinea pig’s delicate skin. Long haired varieties of guinea pigs will require daily grooming in order to keep them in tip-top condition and prevent matting but the short haired varieties will require much less grooming and weekly brushing should suffice.
 
Rabbits rarely need bathing but like guinea pigs, they do enjoy being brushed and in particular along their backs.  Rabbits are like cats and will spend time grooming themselves as they like to be clean.  One thing to check for though is that they do not ingest too much dead hair when licking their fur.  This can make them extremely ill as the ingested hair forms a hairball which blocks the stomach.  Did you know that unlike other animals, a rabbit cannot vomit so the consequences can be dire. Keep an eye on your rabbit’s grooming habits, especially when he is moulting or nesting.

Moulting generally takes place over a period of a few days or weeks and varies from rabbit to rabbit.  To help prevent ingestion of vast amounts of hair, pull the loose hair out gently with your fingers.  It will be sitting on top of his coat in small clumps so will not hurt your rabbit when you do this. 

If your rabbit’s hair does get matted (which can happen with the long haired breeds) it is not adviseable to use scissors to remove it because your rabbit’s skin is paper thin and can very easily be damaged.

Remember, keeping your rabbit hutch or guinea pig hutch clean will definitely prevent your pet from getting dirty with faeces or stale food and a clean rabbit hutch is also much more hygienic for your pet and for you. 

If you want your rabbit to live permanently indoors, you will need to train him to use a litter tray, but as rabbits usually use a single place to deposit their waste, they are usually fairly easy to house-train.

Most rabbits will quickly learn to pee in a tray, but may still scatter a few droppings on  your carpet.  As this is normal  behaviour for a rabbit there isn’t a lot you can do about it but the good thing is that the dry, odourless droppings can easily be swept up or vacuumed away.
  
You usually find that rabbits over a year old are easier to litter-train because they are generally calmer. Neutering and spaying are essential if you are thinking about keeping your rabbit indoors as they reduce spraying and territorial marking when neutered and so make better behaved rabbits that can be reliably house-trained.

It’s important to get your rabbit used to a litter tray from the very first day you bring him into the house, so make sure you have one or two trays at the ready.  If you provide more than one litter tray it will increase your rabbit’s chances of success and after a while you’ll be able to remove the tray he doesn’t use as much.

It’s wise to purchase a couple of big litter trays with high sides as this helps to the litter contained instead of it spilling out over the floor.  The best litter is either newspaper covered with hay and straw, paper-based litters or the non-clumping type of cat litter.  It is best to try and avoid  wood shavings and sawdust and clumping cat litters as these can harm your rabbit.

It is adviseable to start litter training in one room even if your intention is to eventually give your rabbit full run of your house.   If you have a room with a wooden floor or with floor-covering other than carpet, then this is ideal as it makes cleaning up after your rabbit easier - he will have accidents, just like children do !!  Fitting a dog gate in the doorway is a good way to keep your rabbit in one area while he’s in training and he will still feel that he’s part of the family.

Put one litter tray in his rabbit hutch or rabbit cage and a second litter tray in a corner of the room.  If you leave a few of his droppings and a piece of urine-soaked paper inside the trays your rabbit will soon get used the idea that he has to “go” in there, just like training a dog to “go” in the place of your choice.  When your rabbit  hops into the  litter tray give him lots of praise and a little treat.  Otherwise herd him gently towards the tray or coax him there with a favourite treat.  If your rabbit pees on the floor, say “No” firmly but do not shout at him or startle him.  Just calmly and  gently put your rabbit in his litter tray.

Remember to do this immediately after the event or you will just end up confusing him. If your rabbit isn’t keen on being picked up then gently coax him to the tray with a treat.  Never try to trap your rabbit or chase him to put him in his litter tray or he will see this as a punishment.   This is why you should never shout at or smack your rabbit, no matter how lightly as this will terrify your rabbit and you will never get results this way - he will just become nervous around you.

The trick to house-training a rabbit is to make the litter tray a very inviting place to visit.  Putting a treat like a piece of carrot or his food dish in one corner of his litter tray is a good way to coax him in there. 

It’s also worth trying different types of trays and litter to find out which suits your rabbit. Many rabbits like digging and rolling in their trays, grooming themselves or even taking a nap in there - this behaviour shouldn’t be discouraged  - if your rabbit loves spending time in his litter tray he’s more likely to mark it with pee and droppings and so get used to “going” in it on a regular basis.

In the early days it’s important to watch your rabbit carefully during exercise times – because rabbits are creatures of habit they get used to peeing in certain places and then it’s more difficult to stop them from doing it over and over again. 

As mentioned before, always reward your rabbit with lots of praise and cuddles when he uses his tray and then he should want to repeat the experience to get lots of positive attention from you. 

As a lot of rabbits like to find their own spot for “going”,  watch where your rabbit goes and move his litter tray where it is most needed - under the table, behind the chair etc. If this means rearranging your  furniture then so be it.  It is easier than working against a determined rabbit !! 

If you are out of the house or you don’t have time to watch your rabbit then it is wise to  leave him in his rabbit hutch or cage.  Alternatively you may have a small, easy-to-clean room such as the utility room to contain the number of “accidents” he may do and these will be easy to clean up when you return .

Diluted white vinegar will successfully clean litter trays and undiluted white vinegar will remove calcium deposits from the tray and from floors.  If you rabbit pees on the carpet on the sofa then wash off as per washing instructions.
Once  your rabbit becomes more reliable you can gradually increase his running space by one room at a time, until he eventually has full run of the house.
 

If your dog was used to a dog kennel when at your previous home then the smells in the new garden will be different to his old stomping ground.  If you purchased a good quality dog kennel for your dog at your last home then you will probably be taking this with you to the new one.

If not, then you will no doubt be considering a new dog kennel.  If your new garden is big enough then a dog kennel with an attached dog run is great as it will your dog the freedom he loves without the stress of him escaping in a strange area.

If your garden is already secure then a smaller kennel where he can retreat if the sun is too hot or the rain too heavy is another option.

Ideas-4-pets have an excellent selection of flat roof dog kennels, apex roof dog kennels, large dog kennels with attached dog runs and galvanised panels to build your own dog run to your own specifications.

Whatever you decide to provide for your dog when moving home, remember to give him lots of love and attention and reassurance.   Once you move in he will want to run around the house as his natural curiosity will take over as he gets used to the different layouts and the different smells he will discover.  Make sure that you take him out to explore the garden and walk him around the area regularly so that he soon gets used to his new surroundings.

Moving is a busy time for us but it is so important to spend some time with our pets so that they settle into their new surroundings smoothly

Once settled, just like us humans, your dog will soon get used to the differences in the house, garden and surrounding area and any stress he initially feels will soon evaporate.