Some people don’t want to leave their rabbit outside in a rabbit hutch with an outdoor rabbit run, they much prefer to keep their rabbit indoors, which is fine. Just make sure that you provide your rabbit with a suitable rabbit hutch or rabbit cage indoors and either purchase an indoor rabbit run or let him have the run of the house.

If you want your rabbit to live permanently indoors, you will need to train him to use a litter tray, but as rabbits usually use a single place to deposit their waste, they are usually fairly easy to house-train.

Most rabbits will quickly learn to pee in a tray, but may still scatter a few droppings on your carpet. As this is normal behaviour for a rabbit there isn’t a lot you can do about it but the good thing is that the dry, odourless droppings can easily be swept up or vacuumed away.

You usually find that rabbits over a year old are easier to litter-train because they are generally calmer. Neutering and spaying are essential if you are thinking about keeping your rabbit indoors as they reduce spraying and territorial marking when neutered and so make better behaved rabbits that can be reliably house-trained.

It’s important to get your rabbit used to a litter tray from the very first day you bring him into the house, so make sure you have one or two trays at the ready. If you provide more than one litter tray it will increase your rabbit’s chances of success and after a while you’ll be able to remove the tray he doesn’t use as much.

It’s wise to purchase a couple of big litter trays with high sides as this helps to the litter contained instead of it spilling out over the floor. The best litter is either newspaper covered with hay and straw, paper-based litters or the non-clumping type of cat litter. It is best to try and avoid wood shavings and sawdust and clumping cat litters as these can harm your rabbit.

It is adviseable to start litter training in one room even if your intention is to eventually give your rabbit full run of your house. If you have a room with a wooden floor or with floor-covering other than carpet, then this is ideal as it makes cleaning up after your rabbit easier – he will have accidents, just like children do !! Fitting a dog gate in the doorway is a good way to keep your rabbit in one area while he’s in training and he will still feel that he’s part of the family.

Put one litter tray in his rabbit hutch or rabbit cage and a second litter tray in a corner of the room. If you leave a few of his droppings and a piece of urine-soaked paper inside the trays your rabbit will soon get used the idea that he has to “go” in there, just like training a dog to “go” in the place of your choice. When your rabbit hops into the litter tray give him lots of praise and a little treat. Otherwise herd him gently towards the tray or coax him there with a favourite treat. If your rabbit pees on the floor, say “No” firmly but do not shout at him or startle him. Just calmly and gently put your rabbit in his litter tray.

Remember to do this immediately after the event or you will just end up confusing him. If your rabbit isn’t keen on being picked up then gently coax him to the tray with a treat. Never try to trap your rabbit or chase him to put him in his litter tray or he will see this as a punishment. This is why you should never shout at or smack your rabbit, no matter how lightly as this will terrify your rabbit and you will never get results this way – he will just become nervous around you.

The trick to house-training a rabbit is to make the litter tray a very inviting place to visit. Putting a treat like a piece of carrot or his food dish in one corner of his litter tray is a good way to coax him in there.

It’s also worth trying different types of trays and litter to find out which suits your rabbit. Many rabbits like digging and rolling in their trays, grooming themselves or even taking a nap in there – this behaviour shouldn’t be discouraged – if your rabbit loves spending time in his litter tray he’s more likely to mark it with pee and droppings and so get used to “going” in it on a regular basis.

In the early days it’s important to watch your rabbit carefully during exercise times – because rabbits are creatures of habit they get used to peeing in certain places and then it’s more difficult to stop them from doing it over and over again.

As mentioned before, always reward your rabbit with lots of praise and cuddles when he uses his tray and then he should want to repeat the experience to get lots of positive attention from you.

As a lot of rabbits like to find their own spot for “going”, watch where your rabbit goes and move his litter tray where it is most needed – under the table, behind the chair etc. If this means rearranging your furniture then so be it. It is easier than working against a determined rabbit !!

If you are out of the house or you don’t have time to watch your rabbit then it is wise to leave him in his rabbit hutch or cage. Alternatively you may have a small, easy-to-clean room such as the utility room to contain the number of “accidents” he may do and these will be easy to clean up when you return .

Diluted white vinegar will successfully clean litter trays and undiluted white vinegar will remove calcium deposits from the tray and from floors. If you rabbit pees on the carpet on the sofa then wash off as per washing instructions.
Once your rabbit becomes more reliable you can gradually increase his running space by one room at a time, until he eventually has full run of the house.